Remember how I said Huayna Potosi was the hardest physical thing I've ever done in my life?
Well, scrap that. Meet Volcano Licancabur, 5930 masl, who lives silently on the border with Chile and Bolivia.
| Volcano Licancabur and Laguna Verde, Bolivia |
We were lucky enough to meet a couple of Swiss geologists at the tour agency in Tupiza, Bolivia who wanted to combine their salt flat tour to Uyuni with an extra day to climb Licancabur. This was perfect for us because we had always wanted to climb a volcano (that actually resembles a volcano still) and we knew it would be cheaper in Bolivia than practically anywhere else in the world.
| Tupiza, Bolivia. |
We were a bit blase about the whole climb, certain that nothing could ever be harder than Huayna Potosi.
Mistake!
As my alarm went off at 12:30 am and I reluctantly peeled off my four layers of blankets, I seriously questioned myself about whether or not this is a 'holiday' we're meant to be on. It was -10 outside, pitch black and blowing an absolute gale.
The four of us set off with two French guys (who were literally only wearing track suit pants and runners and had just arrived from sea level), and a guide. We began our ascent at 1 am, in pure darkness, my head torch fading with every minute and the freezing winds pelting us from the get go. I actually googled the temperature later that week and the wind chill factor was down to -36 degrees on that day. Ohhh so that's why I couldn't feel my hands or nose at the top.
The four of us set off with two French guys (who were literally only wearing track suit pants and runners and had just arrived from sea level), and a guide. We began our ascent at 1 am, in pure darkness, my head torch fading with every minute and the freezing winds pelting us from the get go. I actually googled the temperature later that week and the wind chill factor was down to -36 degrees on that day. Ohhh so that's why I couldn't feel my hands or nose at the top.
Unfortunately, one of our Swiss comrades had been feeling ill for the two days previous and decided to turn back early. Next, one of the French guys threw up and shortly after that, fell over from a dizzy spell. He was the second to turn back.
We climbed from 4300masl to 5930masl that day. Well over a kilometre UP at serious altitude. Maybe this would be fine if we weren't walking through loose volcanic rock, meaning with each step forward you felt like you were taking two steps back. Literally. It was very frustrating and energy consuming to say the least.
Brad's 15 year old hiking boots also finally self destructed; the sole separated from the upper about an hour into the hike. He enjoyed a shoe full of rocks for the whole hike.
| Not sure whether to laugh or cry... |
It took over 7.5 freezingly windswept hours to get to the summit and 2 hours to get back down, slipping and falling on loose rocks.
There was a frozen crater lake on top of the volcano which was amazing and also a great view into Chile and Bolivia.
We made it, but we were beyond exhausted at the end. Dominik, our Swiss geologist friend, took to hugging the warm rocks on the descent, while Brad and I would take power naps in piles of loose volcanic rock in the sun (you should try it one day, it´s quite comfortable actually).
| The frustration on the way down the volcano... |
| The way down... loose rocks! |
Of course, a hot shower at the end always makes everything better, right?! Right. Too bad we had to wait another day and night for that...
The tour of the national park and the salt flats of Uyuni was amazing. We saw geysers, thermal hot springs, countless volcanoes, flamingos, Altiplano lakes and of course the biggest salt lake in the world! It was a real highlight for me, with sooo many amazing colours!
We were lucky to have experienced it with a couple of hilarious Swiss geologists and a great tour company.
| Llamas in the National Park |
| Vicunas! |
| So many colours! |
| Sunset over the salt flats |
| Sunrise over the salt flats |
| Wanting to go for a swim in the geysers! (So bloody cold outside) |
| Licancabur from the Chilean Side. |
Boy oh boy!!! I always loved those fixed pictures!!! You're really good with it now!!! They're the best!!!! Loved them all!!!
ReplyDeleteWhat a great travel book you'll have for the future!!!
Windows Movie Maker.... plenty of work ahead... enjoy it!!!
...I'll help you with it!!!
ReplyDeleteAAAAH the best feeling in the world when you discover you've missed a blog!!! This was hilarious, loved the photos in the end obviously!! And such beautiful scenery. Every one of your blogs makes me want to go to South America even more than the previous blog! xx Inge
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